FREE PATTERN Cat Toy

You know those little plastic center things with toys inside you get in Chocolate eggs (the ones that used to be fun to pop and launch but now have a hinge so you cant do that) ... well they also make great cat toys

I have some tiny pasta bits left over from weaning the kids (yes it was 6 years ago, i'm a hoarder but also thought great for gluing onto paper for craft things for them). ANYWAY,popped about a level teaspoon inside the yellow plastic and it made a decent rattle ... rice, barley,bell,buttons or anything else small and solid is worth a try tho.

This made it great for being a noisy toy to pat around ... but cats also like to paw-lift and mouth carry things and the smooth plastic sides don't allow that ... SO I thought, let's knit a cover that claws and teeth can get stuck into. This only uses a TINY amount of yarn. I havn't weighed it but i have 4 toys from a 20 gram ball and maybe just under half of it left so a great use of oddments.

Going to get some of these made up for the local Cats Protection and other rehoming places as I go to try and keep the guys and girls looking for forever homes a bit of entertainment

SO pattern time

pop some rice/pasta/split peas/barley into plastic toy holder to make a rattle noise (less is better than more)

using 3mm straight needles and DK yarn

1. Cast on 8sts
2. inc in each stitch - 16sts
3. p1row
4. (k1,inc) to end - 24sts
5. work 13 rows stocking stitch (1 row k, 1 row p)
6. (k1,k2tog) to end - 16sts
7. p1 row
8. (k2tog) to end - 8sts
9. break yarn, thread thru remaining 8 sts and pull tight to gather.

Sew row ends about half way up, pop plastic toy center in and continue sewing row ends closed. finally gather the cast on edge to close other end, fasten off tightly and sew in ends.

TIP ... don't sew row ends completely cos you'll never squeeze the plastic in ... altho loose mattress stitch could be done then pulled tight once the middle is in place. Halfway is enough to hold it all in place while you finish the seam.

Lacy Fingerless Mitts

Way back in February the online wool store Deramores created a knit-a-long through Ravelry. They wafted THIS easy lace patterned snood/cowl designed by Jemma Weston using Rowan yarn.

So I gave it a whirl and it knitted up really quick. Then another KAL member created a pattern for lazy lace like hat to match the scarf. Not being a much of an in-the-round knitter I used her instructions as a start and made a straight needle version instead.

After all that I had a cowl and a hat and some yarn left over ... and this is how these simple fingerless mitts came about. SO pattern time...

Materials

Double Knitting yarn approx 25 grams (allow 30g for length for sewing up etc)

4mm and 5mm straight needles

a tapestry needle to sew up the seam

and the 10 row pattern from Deramores (no longer available so edited into this pattern)

Method

Using 4mm needles cast on 36 stitches, and work 19 rows in K1, P1 rib

Change to 5mm needles and Purl 1 row

Work though the 10 row pattern below twice (20 rows), you will end with the purl row 10.

 

Row 1 (RS): K1 *yfwd, K2togtbl, K3, rep from * to end.
Row 2 and every alt row: K1, P to last st, K1.
Row 3: K2, *yfwd, K2togtbl, K3, rep from * to last 4 sts, yfwd, K2togtbl, K2.

Row 5: K3 *yfwd, K2togtbl, K3, rep from * to last 3 sts, yfwd, K2togtbl, K1.
Row 7: K4 *yfwd, K2togtbl, K3, rep from * to last 2 sts, yfwd, K2 togtbl.
Row 9: K5 *yfwd, K2togtbl, K3, rep from * to last st, K1.
Row 10: K1, P to last st, K1.

 

Change to 4mm needles and work a further 10 rows in K1, P1 rib.

Cast off rib wise.

To Make Up

You need to fold in half and sew the seam matching the rib bands and leaving a space for the thumb. I have added the picture below to show where I feel the thumb is comfortable, in this case a joined from the longer rib band up to the 10th row of the pattern (the eyelet hole) and then another row to created a firm seam edge, and from the smaller rib band for only a couple of rows. Neaten yarn ends and ta-da some easy lace fingerless mitts

These lilac ones match the cowl and hat I made. The rib band at the wrist was done using only 15 rib rows rather than the 19 I used making the light yellow pair for the pattern. If you want a quick charity knit these would be perfect using the 15 row band... you could easily get 4 pairs from a 100g ball of cheap acylic DK.

The lace pattern is in my opinion a good introduction into lace knitting for someone who has the basic skills but wants to expand slightly

If you do make any I would love to see and have a pattern page for them HERE on Ravelry you can link to.

Thank you :D

 

snake pattern

copy/pasted from another blog...will edit for pics and mistakes later

gauge isn't really important, you just need to make sure the hook and wool give a close enough finish so as not to leave big holes. I used a 4mm hook and a double knitting wool that handled quite heavy...it definitely wasnt a baby weighted DK. Used maybe about 25g of main colour with oddments of red and black for detail

sc single crochet
ch chain
inc increase (work 2 sc in single stitch)
dec decrease (insert hook, pull thru thread, insert hook in next stitch, pull thru yarn, then pull yarn thru all 3 loops to make one stitch)

the main body is worked in spirals

Start off by making the tongue, this way it can be fastened off well inside before stuffing the head and prevents any small bits getting eaten off (i have two small boys, so eaten off IS the correct term lol)

With red chain 12, turn and sc in 2nd chain from hook and following 5chain, this makes one half of the forked tongue, make another 7 chain coming off from the last sc, sc down these new chain for the other side of the fork, then sc down the rest of the base chain and fasten off...you should have what now looks like a forked tongue

Using main colour work 2 ch
1st row work 6sc in 2nd ch from hook (6st)
2nd row (inc) in each sc (12st)
3rd row (inc, 1sc) to end (18st)
4th row (inc) in first 3 sc, then sc to end (21st)
5th row (inc, sc, inc) twice, then sc to end (25st)
work 3 rounds straight
9th row (dec, sc,sc,sc) repeat to end (20st)
10th row(dec, sc,sc, sc) to end (16st)

at this point attach tongue by bringing ends thru the starter loop and sewing in ends and knotting off well. Make eyes using knotted wool, i used 2 strands held together bringing wool thru 6 times then pulling tight to make a large sized knot, attaching as picture at the bump in the head. Stuff head then continue on with spirals.

Work for as long as you feel you need to, stuffing as you go, to make a long sausage. I made him long enough to allow a knot, but he could easily be longer or shorter as you wish...this makes him a great stash buster as long as you remeber to leave enough to decrease for the tail as follows...

before decreasing stuff end only very well so the stuffing can move out and fill the tail end when finished.

continue in rounds working a decrease the 5sc round until it gets too close to work comfortably...i had about 5 sts left by that stage, break yarn and stitch thru end to close.

et voila...a little snake 

Tiny Beanie

6mm crochet hook and DK wool

2chain, work 6hdc in 1st chain, do not join,work in spirals

(inc) in each - 12hdc

(work 1, inc in next) around - 18hdc

work 1hdc in each for 4 rounds

work 1 round in sc, fasten off and sew in ends

for the flower

3chain slip into 1st chain.

working into loop work (sc,dc,dc) 6times then slip to close. 

attach to hat as shown with optional button for decoration

Iggle Piggle

As usual just using budget wool in pale blue (maybe about 30grams worth) and some oddments of black and red. uk size 10 needles (3.25mm) and some toy stuffing. legs,body and head are all one piece, stitch count in bold at end of row

k Knit
p Purl
st-st stocking stitch
st/s stitch/stitches
inc increase
k2tog/k3tog knit 2 together/knit 3 together

instructions in brackets are repeated as mentioned

BODY

Beginning at base of feet with red cast on 14st

1st row inc k wise in every stitch (28st)

beginning knit st-st 2 rows

change to pale blue and st-st 8 rows

shape for feet

next row k4, (k2tog) twice, (k3tog) 4times, (k2tog) twice, k4 (16 sts)

st-st 15 rows on these 16sts ending with a p row. break yarn and leave sts on a spare needle

make another leg the same without breaking wool.

join legs together

knit across the 16 sts on needle, then knit across the sts on the other leg, mark both ends of row with coloured thread (32sts)

continue on these sts, beginning purl st-st 21 rows

shape shoulders

next row (k4, k2tog) twice, k8, (k2tog, k4) twice (28sts)

st-st 5 rows

increase for head

next row k3, (inc in next st, k2) 7 times, inc in next st, k3 (36sts)

st-st 9 rows

next row k24, (k2tog) twice, k8 (34sts)

purl 1 row

next row k23, (k2tog) twice, k7 (32sts)

st-st 15 rows

shape top of head

next row k5, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k to end (30sts)

purl 1 row

next row (k2tog) to end (15sts)

next row p1, (p2tog) to end (8sts)

break yarn leaving a long end, thread thru remaining 8 sts and pull up lightly



to make up, bring coloured threads at top of legs together with right side inside and sew both leg seams and oversew cast on stitches, sew up the back seam to just above neck shaping. sew seam from top of head for about an inch to leave space at back of head,


turn right side out and stuff. At this point i would embroider on facial features or add on safety eyes if using them, this way all ends can be well knotted inside the head and less likely to be pulled out by an overzealous tot lol)

finish stuffing and sew seam at back of head closed. get a double length of pale blue wool and wrap around neck, pull tight and knot well, sew in ends

ARMS  make 2

using light blue cast on 7st

1st row (inc) k wise to end (14sts)

beginning purl st-st 15 rows

shape elbows

next row k12 turn

next row p10

next row k to end

st-st 9 rows

shape top of arm

dec 1st at each end of next and every following row until 4sts remain. Cast off


with right side inside sew up seam to top shaping, turn right side and stuff, sew open edge to body with cast off edge at shoulder shaping.

using a double length of wool tie around at approximately row 7 of arm, tie tightly and sew in ends to create a hand.

HAIR make 4

using red cast on 5 sts and icord 6 rows

(where you knit across, slip sts back to 1st needle, bring yarn behind and knit across again pulling tight to create a cord...google icord tho as there are better explainations with pics)

break wool, thread through sts and fasten off

sew hair to top of head as illustrated

NOSE

using blue cast on 2st

1st row (inc) in both sts (4sts)

work 4 rows

next row (p2tog) twice, break yarn leaving long end, thread through 2 sts on needle and pull tight. run a line of stitching around the whole edge of nose and gather with a little stuffing inside, and attach nose to face as illustrated


and ta-da...an iggle piggle


his blanket is just 15 sts worked in sts-st to make a square, then blanket st detail in light blue


I have to add that i am in no way affiliated with the company that makes the program and this pattern is only meant for personal use and all the other usual legal stuff, if you do own any rights and are unhappy with me posting this please feel free to message me and i will remove it...thank you

Toddler Pirate Beanie

I say Toddler size, but altho it's a little big for a smaller kid add on an extra couple of rounds and it's stretchy enough to do a smaller adult head. An extra round of increases should fit most adults. For the motif I ended up making my own up as i went along...I did try to find one online but none of them looked quite what i wanted. I'll write down what I did as best as I can and edit in a better guide with some pictures when i make another. If you try it and can think of a better way to explain it, or if it makes no sense at all please feel free to comment :)

 On to the instructions.

Materials

 Double Knitting (US worsted/Aus 8ply) wool in black and oddments of white. (the whole hat weighs 36grams so about 35g of black would be enough)

4mm(G-6)  and 2.5mm (C-2) crochet hooks

Large eyed tapestry needle

Abbreviations

hdc - Half Double Crochet ( I tend to use US terms so this is the one I mean Art of Crochet by Teresa HDC)

sc - single crochet Art of Crochet by Teresa SC

st - stitch/es

Directions in brackets ( ) repeated as written and [ ] shows stitch count

Gauge 4.5hdc x 4 rounds per inch approx

Hat

round 1 Using 4mm hook and Black yarn make 2 chain, work 6hdc into 2nd chain from hook, do not join,continue in spiral place stitch/row marker for round end

round 2 Work 2 hdc in each hdc working under all 3 loops of previous row [12hdc]

round 3 Work (2 hdc in next hdc, 1hdc in next) to end of round [18hdc]

round 4 Work (2 hdc in next hdc, 1hdc in next 2 hdcs) to end of round [24hdc]

round 5 Work (2 hdc in next hdc, 1hdc in next 3 hdcs) to end of round [30hdc]
round 6 Work (2 hdc in next hdc, 1hdc in next 4 hdcs) to end of round [36hdc]
round 7 Work (2 hdc in next hdc, 1hdc in next 5 hdcs) to end of round [42hdc]
round 8 Work (2 hdc in next hdc, 1hdc in next 6 hdcs) to end of round [48hdc]

round 9 Work (2 hdc in next hdc, 1hdc in next 7 hdcs) to end of round [54hdc]

round 10 Work (2 hdc in next hdc, 1hdc in next 8 hdcs) to end of round [60hdc]

round 11 Work (2 hdc in next hdc, 1hdc in next 9 hdcs) to end of round [66hdc]
round 12 Work (2 hdc in next hdc, 1hdc in next 10 hdcs) to end of round [72hdc]

To make an adult or larger kids hat add in one or two more increase rounds here, following pattern will give 78 stitches and 84 stitches respectively, then continue as below with those stitch counts

rounds 13 to 26 work 1 hdc in each hdc (14 rounds total)
round 27 work 1 single crochet changing to white to complete the stitch, then work to complete 1 full round of single crochet and slip stitch to close.

Sew in all ends neatly


Skull and Crossbones motif

Worked in 3 parts, 1 skull and 2 bones, do not make turning chains after the first foundation chain, in my opinion this gives a neater edge in this case
Skull

Using 2.5mm hook and white chain 7
row 1 work 1 sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain along [6sc] turn,do not make turning chain
row 2-4  work sc in each sc
row 5 work 2sc in first stitch, work to last sc, work 2sc in last stitch [8sc]
row 6 work 2sc in first stitch, work to last sc, work 2sc in last stitch [10sc]
row 7 work 2sc in first stitch, work to last sc, work 2sc in last stitch [12sc]
row 8-11 work 1sc in each sc - 4 rows
row 12 slip stitch into first stitch, work 10sc, slip into last stitch, turn
row 13 miss the slip stitch from previous row and slip into first sc, work 8sc, slip in next stitch, turn
row 14 miss the slip stitch from previous row and slip into first sc, work 6sc, slip in next stitch, turn
row 15 miss the slip stitch from previous row and slip into first sc, work 4sc, slip in next stitch, fasten off

Embroider mouth eyes and nose as shown in picture before sewing skull to hat placing chin of skull 2 inches (5cm) up from contrast trim row.

Crossbones make 2

This is harder to explain and I will get pictures edited in later when I make another to help clarify, but it's basically a chain ,work a nobbly bit,work the chain,make 2 nobbly bits,work other side of chain make nobbly bit and close...bear with me and I'll TRY and write down what I did...

chain 16
in 2nd chain from hook work 1 slip stitch, 3 hdc and 1 slip stitch (5 stitches in one loop)
work in sc along chain to last stitch.
in last stitch work the following, 1 slip stitch, 3 hdc, 1 slip stitch, 3 hdc, 1 slip stitch (this is the double nobbly bit)
continue working down other side of chain to last stitch (the one that was the 1st stitch at the beginning)
in last stitch work 1slip stitch, 3hdc, 1 slip stitch and fasten off

Hopefully this should now look like a bone, if not when sewing to hat the center of the nobbly bits can be pulled in a little to make the indent...again I appologise and I will try to get clearer to understand photos and instructions up ASAP

Sew these onto hat below the skull as shown.

Present hat to toddler and hop he/she likes it :D